Wathen’s was a new one for me when I saw it on the shelf a few weeks ago. I’d never even heard of this brand which claims to be the product of “whiskey’s royal family”. A little digging on Google reveals a ten-year old string of postings on Straight Bourbon in which Chuck Cowdery and some others discuss the arrival of this new bourbon – so apparently I’m a bit late to the game.
Wathen’s seems to have an interesting and typically complicated (for bourbon) history as a brand, having been the result of distilleries being bought, sold, closed, and revived. In the end however, we have Wathen’s on the shelf of a New York City liquor store, where I got my hands on a bottle from barrel number 841.
There is no age statement on this one with the exception of the statement of the bourbon-making family’s age (eight generations / 250 years). This worries me a bit, not knowing what I’m getting into, but I’ll hope for the best.
Stats:
– $40ish
– Made by the Charles Medley Distillery
– 94 proof
Presentation:
Wathen’s comes in a rectangular bottle whose height is approximately twice the width – this gives it a slight squat look. The sides are marked with indented grips, and the neck is short and thin. The labels are made of a rough brown-paper-bag style material and adorned with the image of a barrel over which the name and family’s distinguished age is declared. At the bottom is a short note from C. Medley himself, assuring the reader that the contents of the bottle are from a barrel which he himself has selected.
The bottle also includes an informational tag that’s filled with the familiar familial chest-puffing of bourbons. We have here whiskey royal family, I’m led to believe.
Tasting:
On the nose it’s a soft, dry wheat and bananas for the most part. There’s something of a burnt-pine deep at the center of it. Also, while taking these whiffs, I can’t help but note the fine legs on this bourbon, I’m expecting a quite velvety texture here.
At first on the tongue, Wathen’s comes across with a crisp cherry, then oddly I get a bit of that dried/burnt pine sensation going on in the background. There’s a touch of that banana there as well, but very slight compared with the scent. The finish is long, slow and warm.
Over all:
For some reason ‘crisp’ is the word that keeps coming to mind in describing Wathen’s. My fears about the age turned out to be unfounded: however long it sat in that barrel, that was the right time. I can see myself pulling this off my shelf from time to time, it’s not overly complicated, but there’s a subtlety behind that crispness which I enjoy.